Secret Spot by Daniel Månsson.
Daniel Månsson: "’It’s kind of sharky out there', my friend Hagen told me as we sat on the shore watching Clay Marzo catching amazing waves and getting barreled. We were in a “locals only” spot, the kind of spot you don’t tell anyone about or surf without a knowing someone. But we were with Clay, a local and one of the best surfers in the world. The spot was not only sharky it was full of rocks.
Clay got deep into a barrel and got spitted out. His pose was totally relaxed like he didn’t even have to focus, like he was like born of the water.
After the big wave collapsed, Clay leaned into the whitewater, relaxing into it while the spitting monster collapsed behind him. Rocks, a shallow reef and sharks - nothing seemed to throw off Clay. I was on the beach with a long lens capturing it. It all went so fast I could barely see his relaxed pose until it was all over and I pulled up the photos."