Maui by Daniel Månsson.
Daniel Månsson: "This was Clay Marzo’s backyard at home in Maui. It was not a particularly big day, just some small fun waves. My friend Hagen and Clay paddled out. I watched the action from the shore for a while to decide where to swim out.
After I located the spot where the action was going down, I strapped on my fins and dove into the ocean. I swam out. Warm, nice Hawaiian water wrapped around me. Clay passed me by close, so close I could feel his fins touching my legs. I guess I had gotten a little too close. The waves were barely barreling that day.
Clay got out back and went straight to the next wave. He effortlessly dropped into the wave, barley paddling. I was swimming hard to get in the right position. I could see the waves starting to build up and there he was, Clay trying to squeeze himself into a very small barrel a couple of feet in front of me - everything happened in a split second. I dove down into the crystal-clear water, the reef passing below me, popping up on the other side of the wave just in time to see the tip of Clay’s board while he was heading for the next turn."